Finn-life Log Cabins

Luxury Log Cabins from Finnforest

Welcome to your one-stop shop for all things Finnlife. On this site you will find all the tools and information you need to guide you to the perfect log cabin for you! If you're looking to buy and build your very own Finnlife Log Cabin then this site has everything you need. Read specifications and view images of finn life log cabins from the small but perfectly formed Finnlife Jarvi, the mid-sized Finnlife Mokki to the awesome Finnlife Helsinki, and compare prices from the leading retailers. Want to get started? Click your favourite image below and Compare Now!

5m/sq to 10m/sq Finnlife Log Cabins - Compare Prices!

A full range of Finnlife Log Cabins is available through selected retailers!

     

   

10m/sq to 20m/sq Finnlife Log Cabins - Compare Prices!

     

     

     

 

20m/sq+ Finnlife Log Cabins - Compare Prices!

     

     

     

Construct a superb Finnlife Log Cabin

Relaxing, slow summertime days may be calling, but don’t hasten to build yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it goes together, and you're guaranteed to savour many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are needed. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter dependant on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it alone!

You might present this text to a handyman then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your completed Finnlife Cabin. But, whichever person completes the work, the immediate stage is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each piece place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each piece near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place pieces too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Pull the frame apart again and squeeze PVA adhesive into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Push the sides together tightly. Ensure that the frame is square by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess adhesive from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to prevent adhesive smearing over the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fix all corners with the screws provided.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Place ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and each and every ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the previous shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.


Return to top

A Carpentry Glossary

Glossary of terms
Carpentry Terminology

Architrave - A moulding used to surround a door, window, arch or wooden panelling, or the lowest horizontal moulding of a classical entablature.

Bay window - A window that extends out from the wall of a room, often to floor level giving additional internal floor area.

Beading - A narrow strip of wood with a half round profile used as an ornamental edging.

Bolster chisel - A broad-bladed chisel, normally completely made of steel) used mainly for masonry work but useful for lifting floorboards etc. .

Brace - A diagonal member used to prevent part of a structure from sagging - can either be temporary or permanent.

Cantilever - A projecting beam (or other part of a structure) that is secured at one end only.

Casement window - A window that has vertically and/or horizontally hinged openings and may include non-opening sections of glazing.

Caulking - Sealing joints by applying a flexible compound or sealant.

Chair rail - Another term for dado rail.

Chalk line - A length of string, coated in chalk dust, which is used to produce accurate straight lines for many decorating tasks. The line is held at both ends and 'twanged' against a surface thus transferring chalk dust to it.

Chipboard - A manufactured building board made from compressed and glued wooden particles.

Counter-bore - To insert a suitable screw into a surface so that its head does not protrude above that surface. This is achieved by using screws in a hole 'counterbored' with a flat bottomed cutter. If the counterbore is deep enough, it may be plugged with a piece of doweling to fully hide the screw head.

Counter-sink - To insert a suitable screw into a surface so that its head does not protrude above that surface. This is achieved by using counter sink screws in a hole 'countersunk' with a conical-shaped cutter.

Cross grain - Wood grain that is not inline with the main axis of a length of timber.

Dado - Decorative and/or protective panelling on the lower part of an interior wall. AKA Wainscot.

Dado rail - A moulding attached along a wall, about 1 metre (3ft 4in) from the floor, separating the upper and lower areas of the wall. Originally intended to protect the wall from damage by chair backs. AKA Chair Rail.

Dormer window - The window in the vertical end of a dormer.

Dovetail nailing - Nails driven through one piece of wood at opposing angles into another piece thus making it difficult for the timbers to be pulled apart.

Dowel - A short length of wood, round in section, used for a variety of purposes such as joining timbers, plugging fixing holes etc.

Drip groove - A groove cut in the underside of a projection (such as a window sash or sill) to cause rainwater to drip to the ground rather than running under the projection onto the main structure.

End grain - The surface of wood exposed after cutting across the fibres.

Escutcheon - In door furniture, the ornamental and protective plate around the keyhole.

Fanlight - The glazed light above a door, often fan-shaped and ornamented - however the term is applied to any shape of light above a door.

Feather-edged boarding - Plain weatherboard tapering in thickness; the thick edge overlaps the thin edge of the adjacent board - the fixing should go in the thick edge missing the edge of the board underneath. When hung horizontally, the thick edge goes downwards, when used vertically for fencing etc, the thick edge should be away from the prevailing winds.

Fibreboard - A lightweight manufactured board material with little strength, can be used in ceilings or as insulation to attics.

Fielded panel - A wall or door panel with a raised centre area which is sloped off, bevelled or 'fielded' towards the edges.

Finial - A turned or carved ornament usually in the shape of an urn, ball, bun, spike or figure, often used to decorate the ends of staircase newel posts.

Firrings - Pieces of tapered timber fixed to the top of joists to adjust their slope. Can be used under rook decking to give a drainage fall or to bring a sloping surface level.

Fish plate - Steel plates used to join two pieces of timber end to end - the plates (one on each side) overlap both pieces and are secured using bolts through.

Flush door - Doors which have plain, smooth sides - either constructed with a solid or honeycombed core, surfaced with plywood or other laminate on each side.

Fluting - Parallel concave channels used to decorate the surfaces of stone, plaster or timber etc.

French windows - A pair of narrow casement windows that extend to floor level forming a doorway to the garden or other outside area. Traditionally they opened inwards (as traditionally do windows in France), but modern ones may vary.

Glazing bars - The framing members in a window sash which divide and contain the individual glass panes.

Halved joint - Many variation exist; but the principle is that half of each piece of timber is cut away and the remaining halves are fitted over each other.

Hardboard - A thin manufactured board made from compressed wooden particles - one side smooth, the other side rough, Used for covering subfloors etc.

I Beams - Manufactured joists comprising a thin vertical of manufactured board with wider timber fixed along the upper and lower edges. Provide increased loads over wider spans than can often be achieved using solid timbers.

Jamb - The vertical side part of a doorway or window frame.

Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) - A manufactured building board of compressed wooden fibres and used for a variety of interior joinery and building tasks. The dust is harmful and a mask should be used when cutting or drilling.

Mitre - A joint where the two parts are each cut at 45 degrees so that the make a neat rightangle.

Parquet flooring - A flooring traditionally made up of small wooden blocks arranged in a herring-bone or other geometrical pattern. Modern alternatives consist of thinner wooden panels which give the same effect.

Picture rail - A moulding positioned along a wall a short distance down from the ceiling, special hooks are then used to hook onto the rail to support pictures and other wall decorations. The wallpaper would often stop at the underside of the rail and area above would be painted. Were fashionable years ago, not so much now except in rooms with very high ceilings.

Picture window - A window comprising of a large, single pane or double/triple glazed unit.

Plywood - A manufactured building board consisting of a number of layers of wood veneer stuck together in such a way that the grain of one layer is at right angles to that of the previous layer. Various qualities of face veneer, thicknesses, number of layers etc are available to suit numerous applications

Rail - A horizontal or vertical strut used to make up a panelled door or window frame.

Rebate - An area of a window glazing bar recessed to take a pane of glass.

Sash window - A window consisting of two main frames that slide vertically past each other - each sash being counter balanced by a sash weight on a sash cord.

Spirit Level - A tool used to establish true vertical and horizontal lines by looking at a bubble in spirit filled vials.

Stile - The vertical member on each side of a framed door or window sash.

Straight grain - Grain (wood fibres) that aligns with the main axis of a length of timber.

Straightedge - A length of timber or metal with at least one edge truly straight for marking out, checking levels etc.

Stud wall - An internal, non-load bearing wall faced with lath and plaster or plasterboard. Often timber framed although metal frames are being introduced into domestic building - they have been used for many years in industrial ones.

Studs - The vertical wooden posts within a timber-frame wall.

Subfloor - The surface beneath a floor covering, usually of concrete or timber, and sometimes covered with hard board.

Suspended timber floors - The joists supporting the floor boards or chipboard are themselves supported by small "sleeper" walls at ground floor level or wall hangers at other floors. Older properties may have the joists built into the masonry walls which can lead to the ends of the joists rotting.

Timber frame - A method of building construction where the internal walls, floors, roof etc are manufactured in sections using timber off site and are erected onto a completed base built up from the foundations. In modern timber framed buildings, the inner timber construction is often covered by using an outer skin of brick or similar materials to give a traditional appearance.

Timber framed wall - A wall composed of structural wooden components, sheathed on both sides or infilled with masonry or wattle and daub.

Tongue and groove - A system of interlocking planks along the sides to produce a panelled surface.

Wainscot - Wood panelling or boarding on the lower part of an internal wall. AKA Dado.

Wood-block flooring - A type of wooden sheet flooring consisting of small blocks such as Parquet.

FROM: DIYData.com

Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos