Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

The Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin is the only workshop that lets you take up as much space as you like without getting in anyone elses way.

Whether doing it yourself or gardening, each way you'll love that free feeling that comes from having your very own place to work - a place where everything is close at hand.

The Finnlife Hytti has all the room you'll need for tools, a workbench, office equipment, whatever. Plus, there is a door that you can close and let you get on with the things that are really important.

Why buy the Finnforest Hytti Log Cabin?

* Made from Scandinavian White Wood
* Workshop features 19mm thick logs
* A great building for storage

This shed is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers. Shop around for extras and bargains!

DIMENSIONS:
Internal Width: 2.36m (7'8")
External Width: 2.60m (8'8")
Internal Depth: 1.76m (5'9")
External Depth: 2.00m (6'6")
Ridge Height: 2.05m (6'8")
Internal Area: 4.15m² (45 square feet)
External Area: 5.20m² (56 square feet)

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Fantastic, lounging summer evenings might be coming, but don’t hurry to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is constructed, and you’ll savour many years of hassle-free pleasure. No carpentry knowledge are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it without any help!

It is possible to show this text to a carpenter then relax until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, whichever person gets the cabin built, the first stage is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is critical. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to construct you ought to ensure that you have a complete set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each component close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to lay components too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes internal walls, also Lay the full-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance. Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If required, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should knock each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not been supplied with an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the length-most. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of openings for the roof beams. As each opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then secure by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Hytti Log Cabin

Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Finnlife Models