Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

The Finn-Life Ikkuna Log Cabin: Just what you need to work at home.

No matter what your job, be it architect, graphic designer, office worker, the Ikkuna provids all the space you need.

What do all these people need? The Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin- a redefinition of the concept of home office. Here, you dont so much work from home as live near the office. Still, it's your own place, so do with it what you like.

Why buy the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 4.37m
External: 4.64m

Depth:
Internal: 5.01m
External: 6.33m

Ridge Height
External: 3.50m

Area:
Internal: 21.56m²
External: 29.40m²

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Build the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Wonderful lazy summery days might be enticing, but don’t hasten to build yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to figure out how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it alone!

You could show this text to a carpenter then sit back until he delivers the keys to your finished Finnlife Cabin. However, whosoever does the job, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the footprint of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you start to build you ought to make sure that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the
Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put pieces too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the first and bottom level. Lay them over the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finnlife Log Cabin features internal walls, also put the half-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance.

Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The location of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Lay the first set of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints gap together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Lay them in the right position.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Be careful with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As each gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then secure by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the first row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Lay the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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