Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

The Finnforest Jarvi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Jarvi is totally ideal for your garden, and like all cabins in the Finnlife range, it can be a very purposeful building.

The Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin has 28mm thick logs for the walls, a one door, and one window. One of the unusual features is the pair of lockable window shutters. During the day you can shelter from the sun and rain underneath the Jarvi's wide canopy; at night you can secure your possessions behind the shutters.

Finnforest log cabins are built using the highest quality sustainable softwood from Scandinavian forests which are well managed and where industry and wildlife coexist harmoniously. The wall logs are layered alternatelytogether with windproof tongue and groove joints, which results in a building thats weatherproof.

Well illustrated, step-by-step instructions come with with your log cabin making assembly easier and simpler to follow. The doors and windows come fully glazed saving you a lot of work. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is in the right order for assembly, thus negating any time consuming reordering.

Finnforest Jarvi Log Cabin Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Wide canopy across the front

Dimensions
Internal: 2.70m x 2.24m (8ft 10in x 7ft 4in)
External: 2.96m x 2.50m (9ft 9in x 8ft 3in
Ridge Height: 2.25m (7ft 5in)
Internal Area: 6.05m² (65 ft²)
External Area: 7.40m² (79 ft²)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers.

The Finnforest Jarvi provides:

# A comfortable cabin in your garden that will create a home office away from the hustle and bustle, a guest hideaway, somewhere to chill out - even a sauna.

# Superior 28mm tongue and groove timber wall boarding.

# Pre-hung door and one opening window supplied with styrene glazing.

# Window shutters lockable from the inside.

# Felt shingle roof.

Return to top

Constructing a Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Lovely, lounging summery evenings may be enticing, but don’t hurry to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is put together, and you're guaranteed to savour many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction abilities are involved. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

You may present this text to a professional builder then relax until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Cabin. But, whosoever gets the cabin built, the first stage is to understand fully these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is important. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you commence to erect you ought to ensure that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each piece near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to set pieces too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Place out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Log Cabin is built you can then go back and cut off away any extra polythene/DPC membrane showing. Ensure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Log Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards end in a flush ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board should be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to take it out later on. When erecting the Finnlife Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the winter months. When constructing during the winter time we would advise hitting the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
fashioned by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The final roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Place it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line fashioned by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If needed use a cut to trim it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Place ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the previous shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have put the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

Return to top

Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Jarvi Log Cabin

Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Constructing a Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Finnlife Models