Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kopello Log Cabin: The multipurpose hall that never closes - snooker, dance or village.

The Finnforest Kopello log cabin is manufactured using quality wood from sustained forests.

Why buy the Finnforest Kopello Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 44mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.1m
External: 3.8m

Depth:
Internal: 5.07m
External: 5.36m

Ridge Height
External: 2.7m

Area:
Internal: 17.81m²
External: 20.36m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - consult your retailer for details.

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Constructing the Koppelo Log Cabin

The slow sunshining afternoons may be enticing, but don’t hurry to erect yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to get to know how it is put together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are involved. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

You might show this document to a handyman then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Log Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is critical. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to build you ought to check that you have a complete set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every component near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Note again that if your Finnlife Cabin includes internal walls, also Place the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches shows where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If needed, adjust the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second level of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should knock each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not been supplied with an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flushed ridge line. Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board must be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked centre line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When constructing the Finnlife Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the period when it's colder. When constructing during the winter period we would recommend knocking the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Place it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Place ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the previous shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have placed the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to attach.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Koppelo Log Cabin

Finnlife Koppelo Log Cabin

Constructing the Koppelo Log Cabin

Finnlife Models