Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin

Outdoor fun circles around the Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin.
If your garden was an outdoor playing field then that would make the Finn Life Kulma Log Cabin your pavilion. The Finnlife Kulma seems custom-designed for serving refreshments and watching sport.

Worry not about rain or the dreaded bad light. The inside is so roomy, the food, drink and banter - sporting and otherwise - can carry on all through the night!

Why buy the Finnforest Kulma Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood harvested from sustainable forests.
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Width:
Internal: 3.82m
External: 4.08m

Depth:
Internal: 2.94m
External: 3.20m

Ridge Height
External: 3.01m

Area:
Internal: 9.90m²
External: 11.56m²


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How to build your own Finnlife Log Cabin

Those long sunshining evenings may be beckoning, but don’t hurry to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is constructed, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are involved. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You might present this text to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your great new Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, no matter who completes the work, the initial step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is critical. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to erect you ought to check that you have a full set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every component near to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.


Note again that if your Finnlife Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If needed, adjust the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should tap each set down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not received an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards terminate in a flushed ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board may be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to take it out later on. When making the
Finn Life Log Cabin during the summer periods, we suggest to leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the colder periods. Where constructing during the winter period we would recommend hitting the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The final roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If needed use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.




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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos