Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Lampi log cabin is a member of the Finnforest quality range of outdoor buildings.

Een while it comes in a smaller package, the Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin still has loads to offer. It can be your very own hideaway, home office, storage area or kids playroom.

The Finn Life Lampi is the answer you are looking for!

The Finnforest Lampi is composed of Scandinavian design, with logs of 28mm in thickness. The compact size of this superb log cabin is simply ideal for those who need everything in their garden

The roof and floor is made up of Tongue and Groove which makes this cabin even more stable and sturdy and gives it superb longevity. This building features two opening windows and glazed door, providing a chic look.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Lampi 2 opening windows
Lampi with underfloor heating 2 opening windows
Door Opening Size (w x h)
Lampi 0cm 0cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Lampi Styrene
Lampi with underfloor heating Styrene
Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Lampi 2.8cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 2.8cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Glazing Thickness 0cm

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How to Construct A Finnlife Log Cabin

Beautiful, slow summery evenings might be calling, but don’t rush to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will change dependant on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

It is possible to present this document to a handyman then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your great new Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, whosoever completes the work, the immediate step is to read carefully these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is distinctive. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different a slight amount from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is important. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to construct you should make sure that you have a complete set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the primary and lowest level. Lay them across the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finnlife Log Cabin also has internal walls, also place the half-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance.

Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Lay the first set of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints gap together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Lay them in the suitable position.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards end in a flushed ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to take it out later on. When erecting the Finn Life Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where building during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to minimize any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The final roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line created by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Lampi Log Cabin

Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

How to Construct A Finnlife Log Cabin

Finnlife Models