Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

The wide roomed and spacious Finnforest Mirva Log Cabin comes provided with tough shingle roof, and is available with the option of under floor heating from selected retailers - see individual sites for further details!

The Finnforest Mirva has a set of two outward-opening windows, twin apertures and extra panels; all of which are fully glazed. The walls and floor are constructed using 28mm thick logs, the walls have an interlocking layer design at the corners that is both decorative and aids in making the log cabin building more sturdy. The roof overhangs at the front, which makes is great for use as a veranda, and is covered in shingles giving both attractiveness and durability.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Mirva 2 side opening windows
Mirva with underfloor heating 2 side opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Mirva 0cm 0cm
Mirva with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Mirva Styrene
Mirva with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Tongue & Groove

Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Mirva 2.8cm
Mirva with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Build the Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

Relaxing, slow summer evenings might be enticing, but don’t rush to build yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it is put together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

It is possible to show this text to a handyman then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, whosoever gets the cabin built, the first stage is to read carefully these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the footprint of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to construct you ought to ensure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to set pieces too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Your built Finn Life Log Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They offer a strong base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not block the circulation of air beneath the cabin by blocking the open end. To prevent damp rising into your cabin each floor beam should be covered by 2 strips of damp-proof membrane, one on top and one below. The polythene transit packaging makes a perfectly acceptable damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Else you can buy a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are simple to identify. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finnlife Log Cabin
model; please refer to your individual Building Plans and Parts List.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to erect the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s simple to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the final shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Mirva Log Cabin

Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

Build the Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

Finnlife Models