Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

The Finnforest Mokki Log Cabin can be a spacious and light summber cabin/shed housing a pair of doors and nice large window, allowing for an ideal and never-resented extra sitting room;

Finnforest cabins are manufactured employing the best quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry. It's alternate layering of the wall logs allows for a rigid building - a standard of excellence unique to Finnlife Log Cabins.

Clearl and well drawn, step-by-step instructions come with your cabin making assembly easier and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, which will save you time.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 3.54m x 2.70m (11ft 7in)
External: 3.80m x 2.96m (12ft 5in x 9ft 8in)
Internal Area: 9.56m² (103 ft²)
External Area: 11.25m² (121 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.51m (8'3")
It isrecommend that a concrete base is used and the cabin walls are approximately 35mm off the ground. The floor has floor joists which are pressure treated.

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Building a Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Beautiful, long summery days might be beckoning, but don’t hasten to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is constructed, and you will get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction abilities are involved. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter dependant on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

It’s possible to present this document to a professional builder then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. But, no matter who does the job, the immediate step is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to construct you ought to ensure that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each part close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to put parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any remaining cutdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by puting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the location of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards in sequence starting with the length-most. Be careful with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends shows a succession of slots for the roof beams. As each slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Mokki Log Cabin

Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Building a Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Finnlife Models