Finnlife Peile Log Cabin

The Finnlife Peili Log Cabin is a sublime log cabin which offers a great-sized space inside and enough room for you to create something truly unique for yourself and your garden.

Like all log cabins in the Finnforest range, the Finn Life Peili is designed with top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry.

Use the Well illustrated, step-by-step plans that come supplied with your cabin making assembly of the building simpler and very straightforward.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

DIMENSIONS

Height:9'5" (2.9m)
Width:9'7" (2.96m)
Depth:14'11" (4.34m)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - see individual retailers for details.

Build a Finnlife Peille Log Cabin

Gorgeous, lazy sunshining evenings may be beckoning, but don’t hasten to erect yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you're guaranteed to get pleasure from many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

You may present this text to a professional builder then relax until he delivers the keys to your great new Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whichever person finishes the task, the initial step is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the footprint of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you begin to build you should make sure that you have a full set of components. Tick off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Your complete Finn Life Log Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They provide a solid base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not obstruct the flow of air underneath the cabin by covering the open end. To disallow damp rising into your cabin every floor beam should be covered by two strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one below. The polythene transit packaging provides a perfectly good damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Otherwise you can buy a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and cut that into strips. Floor beams are effortless to identify. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finnlife Log Cabin
model; please refer to your specific Building Plans and Parts List.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase in steps to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence starting with the longest. Be careful with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends reveals a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then secure by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the first row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Lay the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Peile Log Cabin

Finnlife Peile Log Cabin

Build a Finnlife Peille Log Cabin

Finnlife Models