Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

There's room to swing a cat or two in the Finnlife Pori Log Cabin - room for a full extended pool cue - room enough to practice dancing - got kids? invite the whole class round for a birthday party!

The covered veranda offers almost as much space again. Don't ask a few friends over, ask them all - there'll still be room to spare.

Why buy the Finnforest Pori Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 5.63m
External: 5.90m

Depth:
Internal: 3.63m
External: 5.39m

Ridge Height
External: 3.13m

Area:
Internal: 20.48m²
External: 31.82m²

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Construct yourself a Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

Those long summertime evenings might be beckoning, but don’t hurry to erect yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it goes together, and you'll certainly enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are involved. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to present this text to a carpenter then relax until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever finishes the task, the initial stage is to read carefully these instructions. The knack is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the footprint of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you commence to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every part close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to set parts too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any leftover cutdust. Dust-free joints ensure a better fit. Walls are built by seting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the length-most. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of slots for the roof beams. As every slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fix by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the first row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Lay the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Pori Log Cabin

Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

Construct yourself a Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

Finnlife Models