Finnlife Puro Log Cabin

Finnlife Puro Log Cabin

The Finnlife Puro Log Cabin, newly brought out just last year, conforms to a traditional scandinavian design. As with many of the Finnlife log cabins the logs are 28mm in thickness. Whatever corner of your garden you intend to place the cabin in is simply perfect. The roof of the [Blog cabinand the floor are manufactured of oriented strand board and the roof covering is shingle tile. These boards are also 28mm thick.


TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Building Dimension Width Depth Eaves Height Ridge Height
Puro 262cm 262cm 0cm 280cm
Puro with underfloor heating 262cm 262cm 0cm 280cm

Windows
Puro 2 side opening windows
Puro with underfloor heating 2 side opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Puro 0cm 0cm
Puro with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm
Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Puro Styrene
Puro with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Solid Sheet Material

Roof Material Solid Sheet Material

Cladding Width
Puro 2.8cm
Puro with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Instructions for building a Finnlife Log Cabin

Those long summertime evenings may be coming, but don’t hurry to erect yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it goes together, and you'll certainly savour many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it without any help!

You might show this text to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, whosoever does the job, the first stage is to read carefully these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may alter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to construct you should ensure that you have a full set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to set components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.



Your built Finn Life Log Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They give a solid base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not prevent the flow of air underneath the cabin by covering the uncovered end. To disallow damp rising into your cabin each floor beam should be covered by two strips of damp-proof membrane, one on top and one underneath. The polythene transit packaging makes a perfectly good damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Otherwise you can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and cut that into strips. Floor beams are easy to identify. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finnlife Log Cabin
model; please refer to your specific Building Plans and Parts List.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards finish in a flushed ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board should be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to take it out later on. When constructing the Finnlife Cabin during the summer periods, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where constructing during the winter time we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Set it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is approximately straight. If needed use a saw to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Set ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and each and every ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have put the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.





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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos

 
March 10, 2010
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