Finnlife Reikko Log Cabin

The FinnForest Riekko Log Cabin

The Finnlife Riekko Log Cabin is an beautiful looking log cabin offering a decent-sized space inside and the scope to create something truly lovely for yourself and your garden.

Like all log cabins in the Finnforest range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife live in harmony.

Why buy the FinnForest Reikko Log Cabin?

Well illustrated, step-by-step plans are supplied with your log cabin making assembly more simple and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood is packed in protecting sheeting and comes packed in the right order for assembly

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

DIMENSIONS

Height:9'5" (2.9m)
Width:9'7" (2.96m)
Depth:14'11" (4.34m)


Return to top

How to build a Finnlife Riekko Log Cabin

Lovely, lounging summery days may be enticing, but don’t hurry to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is put together, and you'll certainly get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will change depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

You might present this text to a handyman then relax until he hands over the keys to your great new Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whichever person completes the work, the immediate step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is critical. Care given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to build you ought to check that you have a complete set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every part close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Put out the floor beams at orderly intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is finished you can then go back and cut off away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane visible. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Put one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the first row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the final shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Put the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the middle of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.





Return to top

Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos