Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

The Finnforest Talo Log Cabin is multi-purpose; it offers both a convenient store room and also has a decent sized space in the main room. The store room is cordoned off the main room and can be entered through its own external door, no only allowing a room for storage of equipment and garden furniture but perhaps another quiet room.

Like all Finnlife log cabins in the Finnforest range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife live in harmony.
Why Buy FinnForest?

Assembly of the Finnlife Talo Log Cabin is made easy with the clearly illustrated and clear to follow step by step plans. Fully glazed windows and exterior panels make life easier for you.

FEATURES:

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Separate side room

DIMENSIONS:

Internal: 4.47m x 3.51m (14ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.76m x 3.80m (15ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Internal Area: 15.69m² (169 ft²)
External Area: 18.09m² (195 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.90m (9'6")

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin - A building How To

Those long sunshining days might be coming, but don’t rush to construct yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will change dependant on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

It’s possible to present this text to a professional builder then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finn Life Cabin. But, no matter who does the job, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the footprint of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to erect you ought to check that you have a complete set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every part close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to set parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s a good idea to running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any remaining cutdust. Dust-free joints ensure a better fit. Walls are built by seting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the location of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase in steps to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Put angled gable boards sequentially beginning with the length-most. Be careful with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of slots for the roof beams. As every slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Talo Log Cabin

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin - A building How To

Finnlife Models