Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

The Finn-Life Teos log cabin by Finnforest is part of the Finnlife range of quality garden buildings.

The cleanly, lighted, spacious and Finnlife Teos Log Cabin gives the occupant a complete 180 degree view of his or her garden with surrounding windows on every side.

For added flexibility, the large opening window is able to be arranged on either the left or right side wall.

Dimensions

External Width 4.204m

Depth 2.704m

Ridge Height 3.580m

Area 12.39m2

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - Instruction Guide

Sumptuous, lounging summery evenings may be coming, but don’t hasten to erect yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it goes together, and you’ll get pleasure from many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary dependant on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to show this document to a carpenter then relax until he presents you with the keys to your great new Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whoever finishes the task, the immediate step is to read carefully these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of yourFinnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you start to build you should make sure that you have a full set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put components too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Your finished Finn Life Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They provide a solid base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not block the circulation of air underneath the cabin by covering the open end. To stop damp rising into your cabin every floor beam should be covered by 2 strips of damp-proof membrane, one on top and one underneath. The polythene transit packaging provides a perfectly acceptable damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Else you can buy a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are simple to notice. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your [Finnlife Log Cabin
model; please refer to your individual Building Plans and Parts List.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to take it out later on. When constructing the
Finnlife Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the period when it's colder. When building during the winter months we would recommend hitting the boards together, to minimize any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The final roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Place it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line made by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If needed use a cut to trim it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the final shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Place the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Teos Log Cabin

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - Instruction Guide

Finnlife Models