Finnlife Valo Log Cabin

In case you want to use the Finnlife Valo Log Cabin as a guest room, hobby hideaway, or your own library you'll find the Valo is more than capable of delivering. As soon as the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finnlife Valo is about going back to basics: you, nature and the things you care for most.

Arrange the Valo to face the south and the sun will neaver appear to set. A wonderfully welcoming log cabin like this catches the sun at pretty much any angle. from break of day to dusk of eve, the light of the sun will come streaking through those enormous side windows; In the middle of the day, you'll get warming sunshine right through the doors.If it gets too hot, you can always push open the doors and windows. Too cold, simply shut them tight to keep the warmth inside. Even on a dull or rainy day, the Valo's fabulous 90-degree views will lure you into the garden.

This log cabin's components are precision-cut from quality Scandanavian softwood for a perfect fit, first time and every time. The timber comes from well managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist - and where the rate of tree planting exceeds the rate of felling.

Cabin Measurements

The Valo comes with these features as standard:

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build A Finn Life Valo Log Cabin

Sumptuous, long sunshining days may be beckoning, but don’t rush to build yourFinnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it goes together, and you'll certainly enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are involved. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it without any help!

You may show this document to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, whosoever completes the work, the immediate step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is crucial. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to build you ought to make sure that you have a complete set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to set components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Put out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is built you can then go back and trim away any additional polythene/DPC membrane visible. Ensure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Put one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards finish in a flush ridge line. Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked centre line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to take it out later on. When erecting the
Finnlife Cabin during the hotter months, we advise leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the colder periods. Where building during the winter time we would advise hitting the boards together, to minimize any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
fashioned by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line fashioned by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If needed use a cut to remove it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have placed the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Valo Log Cabin

Finnlife Valo Log Cabin

Build A Finn Life Valo Log Cabin

Finnlife Models